Lubricating non-sealed bearings in front and rear hubs

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Lubricating the front and rear hub bearings are advanced jobs. You should not attempt these job unless you feel comfortable with the basic projects and have the proper tools (see tool list). Your neighborhood bike mechanic might be able to help you, if needed.

Step 1
Release the skewer and remove the wheel.

Step 2
Remove the skewer from the axle rod then place the parts back on the skewer in the same order and orientation they came off.

Step 3
Choose one side of the hub and place one cone wrench on the cone and one cone wrench on the lock nut. Turn the wrench on the lock nut counterclockwise (left). It should not require a great deal of pressure to loosen the lock nut. Once it is loose, back the locknut all the way off the axle rod then remove the cone by backing it off as well. Now the axle can be removed with the opposite cone and locknut still in place (leave them on the axle rod). Carefully remove the bearings (they may fall out on their own), count them and place them on a towel. Note: You must inspect your bearings at this time to assure they are not pitted. Pitted bearing are visibly damaged and dull as opposed to bright and shiny. Replace all the bearing in the hub if you observe any pitting or wear. It's nice to know that bearings are made of slightly softer steal than the race they spin in - this helps assure the bearings wear out rather than the more expensive race/hub.

Step 4
Now that everything is apart, it is time to clean all the parts. A towel with a bit of citrus solvent will easily remove the old grease form the bearings, cones, axles and races.

Step 5
Apply grease generously to the races, filling them up.

Step 6
Place the bearings in the grease and reassemble the parts by reversing the step 3 procedures. Don't over tighten the cones and don't set the locknuts until you have adjusted the cones (step 7).

Step 7
Adjusting cones: This is an art and is done by feel, so take your time. You may need to repeat this procedure several times to get it just right. Screw the cone on the axle rod to moderate finger tightness and spin the wheel several revolutions while holding the axle, then tighten the cone with your fingers again (repeat until you can not tighten the cone any more with just your fingers or until you feel a roughness or resistance when you spin the wheel.

Step 8
Note: The idea is to move the cone back and forth by tightening and loosening it in tiny increments until it is set just right.
Use a cone wrench to tighten the cone very slightly by turning it clockwise - don't over tighten! Now try spinning the wheel several revolutions again - do you feel any roughness or resistance in the bearings? If yes, go to Step 8a. If no go to step 8b.

Note: If you don't feel any roughness or looseness (play) in the bearings go to Step 9. Also, If you try this procedure several times and just can't get the wheel to spin without roughness or looseness, take the bearings out and re-inspect them and the races for wear - you may need to replace the bearings. If the races are worn, you'll need to replace the hub. Best to check with your neighborhood bike shop if you suspect the races are bad.

Step 8a
Loosen the cone slightly, spin the wheel several revolutions, if you feel any roughness in the bearings, loosen the cone some more. If not, repeat step 8.

Step 8b
Do you feel any looseness (play), even a tiny bit, in the cone/bearing/axle assembly? If yes, go back to step 8.

Step 9
Replace the locknuts and, while holding the cone in place with one wrench, gently snug up the locknut to the cone with the other wrench. Check the adjustment by spinning the wheel as in step 8. If you feel roughness or looseness you'd better go back to Step 8, readjust and try Step 9 again. It's normal to have to repeat this procedure. With practice you'll get faster.