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Hole-in-the-wall burritos better than corporate competition
By Spencer Essey
sessey@mscd.edu

El Taco de Mexico
714 Santa Fe Drive
Denver, CO 80204
303-623-3926

“Are you sure you wanna eat here?” newcomers often ask as they pass under the jaundiced fluorescent lights and step into El Taco de Mexico on Seventh Avenue and Santa Fe Boulevard.

But after the initial fear of the restaurant’s skuzzy atmosphere has subsided and new customers receive their food, they usually begin singing a different tune. The little restaurant, which seats maybe 25 people at full capacity, could put Chipotle out of business, if only more people had heard of it.

Their main fare and claim to fame, like Chipotle, is giant burritos. But at El Taco, they come smothered in vegetarian green chili. Though the ingredients are standard, the proprietors have done an excellent job in choosing the perfect elements for their unique burritos.

Each burrito comes stuffed with rice, a choice of meat (tongue, steak, pork or chicken), beans and cheese, plus a magical blend of spices that bring unparalleled flavor. It is as addictive as heroin.

The burritos can be a bit hot, but even a gringo who can barely handle the spiciness of a bell pepper will enjoy El Taco’s spices.

The rest of the menu fares well too, offering an array of Mexican standards.

While the burritos cost maybe a quarter more than Chipotle’s, the rest of the menu can be a little pricey, and the servings are skimpy. The enchiladas cost more than nine bucks and are smaller than a deck of cards.

To wash down the spicy burrito goodness, try a glass of horchata, a sweet cinnamon rice milk. For dessert, they have homemade flan and cheesecake, which provide the perfect sweet ending to a meal.

Don’t let its appearance fool you. El Taco de Mexico is the true definition of a hole in the wall. However, their unique blend of spices and unparalleled ingredients, like the best dope on Capitol Hill, may convert first-time diners into burrito junkies with just one taste.