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Metro : Local
Last Updated: Oct 16th, 2008 - 13:33:17


Two smokehouses saucy standouts in Denver scene
By Ian Gassman
Sep 25, 2008, 14:06


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There are many barbecue restaurants, small and large, throughout Denver, yet two stand out. The halls of these two eateries house great reviews, dedicated consumers and, most importantly, great taste.
My first stop was to Brothers BBQ. A once-derelict garage on the corner of Monaco Parkway and Leetsdale Avenue was a so-called home for brothers Chris and Nick O'Sullivan and became the first barbecue restaurant they ever owned. Born in Reading, England, the two brothers were talented professional race car drivers. After seeing their talent progress, they started to race in the United States.
Another hobby quickly formed for the brothers: to taste almost every local cuisine in each region they passed through. From fresh lobster in Florida to the pico de gallo of New Mexico, the delicacy that the brothers enjoyed the most was traditional barbecue. The brothers began to find all sorts of barbecue recipes hailing from Kansas City to Texas to Memphis, which they set out to reformulate into flavors they could call their own.
The brothers tastefully present saucy flavors as well as specialty meats, sides and drinks for only a few dollars. A hearty beef brisket or smoked pork shoulder sandwich is only $7.79 with a side and a drink.
The Brothers BBQ I attended had a real sports bar atmosphere, laden with beer and televisions. You may dislike this atmosphere, so there are tables outside, but what is better than football and BBQ?
The brothers have won various awards from Westword, the "#1 Best Of" from '99 to '03 and 5280's Editor's Choice. Find a Brothers BBQ near you at one of their seven Denver Locations, most recognizably that same small garage on Leetsdale and Monaco.
Second comes Wolfe's Barbeque on East Colfax and Pennsylvania Avenue. It is considered one of the best joints in town. Winning Westword's Top Ten award in '03 and the Denver's Best Of in '06, the restaurant has been renowned since its start 26 years ago.
I met the owner, Louis Wolfe, after downing a meaty pulled-pork sandwich and asked what regional style his flavor hails from. He gave an odd answer: his sauce and cooking methods come from his hometown of Tulsa, Oklahoma.
"I remember my Dad would always barbecue in the backyard, and I wanted to bring that to (my restaurant)," Wolfe said.
Oklahoma is appreciated for barbecued beef brisket in Texas traditional style and that is partially what Wolfe offers as well as barbecued tofu, a nice treat for any vegetarian customer.
His original sauce is a family recipe and his smoker pit has a simple charcoal and hickory base that caresses each piece of meat with a smoked goodness. "Keep it simple," is Wolfe's style and his restaurant really shows it. Small wooden tables and creaky floorboards let any carbeque connoisseur feel at home. You may prefer the dinner rush, but it is best to enjoy Wolfe's mom-and-pop style establishment during lunchtime when it isn't as busy.
Let yourself have a taste of the fare at either of these two special Denver barbecue stops. Each place imitates a taste well, while giving the flavor a nice twist. Keep these priceless tastes in mind and don't worry about the sauce on your shirt, it's the custom around here.




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